Some things to know about Barcelona and the Catalonia region of Spain, if you don’t happen to be following world news: the region is in thew midsts of an identity crisis, or you could say that more than 700 years of history has finally reached a roiling simmer.

A quick primer: Catalonia was once a semi-autonomous region of the Kingdom of Aragon, fought over by the Kingdom, the Spanish Crown and the French until about 1650. Eventually, it was beaten into submission, losing all autonomy to Spain in the early 1700s. Yes, the Catalans are still a little pissed about that. Due to its long and rich history, the Catalan people have a strong sense of pride and nationalism. A quick glace around you on any street will prove this, as slogans wave in the soft breeze and the Catalonian flags cast their shadows over everyone.

Ya still with me? Jump to the late-1800s/early-1900s; Catalonia was a haven for socialist and anarchist thought. Tensions across the country finally erupted into the Spanish Civil War, when Francisco Franco’s fascists took power. The bruises from this have never fully faded and the memories of terror and death still resonate down cramped alleys. Nations have always been built with the blood of the people.

Today, Catalonia is in a state of slow moving crisis. Starting around 2009, cities across the region began holding protest referendums on independence. While the Spanish Government never recognized these votes, they showed a clear desire for more autonomy on the part of the Catalonian people. (It also doesn’t help the situation that Catalonia happens to be one of the, if not the most economically vibrant regions of Spain. Who would have though that government and business go hand-in-hand?)

In 2017, the Catalonian government held a region-wide referendum on independence. Of those who cast ballots (about 43% of the population.), more than 90% voted to form a new republic. The government of Spain did not like this. The central government began arresting independence leaders, and some regional officials were forced into exile or prison.

So here we are today; a state of confusion and crisis. Cries for Libertat! echo down empty streets, mixing in a cacophony of pain and loss (and probably a little bit of shame and embarrassment).

Don’t let this stop you from coming to this country or region. Protests do occur, but are largely peaceful and actually a pretty festive environment. But you should at least know the land you are visiting, and as Pete Seeger asked: “which side are you on, boys?”

Despite the political turmoil, the city carries on in a way it always has - somewhere between freedom and fiefdom. However, when the protesters have cleared the streets, Spaniards sit down at the same tables of wine and tapas. Empty slogans and discarded placards fill there streets, as the tides pull relentless and uncaring as they always have.